Ursolic Acid (INCI: URSOLIC ACID) — Key Topical Benefits
Benefit Cluster • Mechanisms & Findings • Evidence Strength
| Benefit Cluster |
Representative Mechanisms & Findings |
Strength of Evidence* |
| Barrier Repair & Moisturisation |
Liposome-encapsulated UA (“Merotaine”) raised total and ω-hydroxy-ceramides in human epidermis within 3–11 days and up-regulated filaggrin, improving transepidermal water-loss. PubMed 11876525 |
Clinical ✚✚, in vitro |
| Anti-ageing / Wrinkle Reduction |
– UA liposomes stimulated dermal fibroblast collagen synthesis and inhibited elastase. – Open-label facial cream with 0.1 % UA showed visible wrinkle and firmness improvements after 4–8 weeks. PubMed 11595826 | KR20010057429A |
Clinical ✚, in vitro |
| Photoprotection |
– In HaCaT keratinocytes, UA (1–10 µM) curtailed UVB-induced ROS, preserved mitochondrial function and normalized lipid metabolism. – UA reduced MMP-1 after sub-erythemal UVB in ex-vivo human skin. PubMed 39718470 | PMC 7313156 |
Cell / Ex-vivo ✚✚ |
| Anti-inflammatory & Anti-itch |
– Down-regulated NF-κB, COX-2, IL-6. – In DNCB-mouse atopic-dermatitis, 0.3 % UA cream lessened erythema, ear thickness and mast-cell influx. – Inhibited MRGPRX2-mediated mast-cell degranulation, reducing scratching by 60 %. PubMed 36996741 | YRTPh 2023 |
Animal ✚, cell |
| Wound-healing & Anti-scar |
UA-loaded lipid-core nanocapsules accelerated wound closure and tempered inflammatory infiltrate in rat full-thickness wounds. Sci. Direct 2021 |
Animal ✚ |
| Seboregulation / Anti-acne |
UA suppresses 5-lipoxygenase and P. acnes growth in vitro and reduces sebum over-production in sebocyte cultures. (Supplier dossiers; no peer-reviewed clinical data yet.) |
In vitro |
*✚✚ = multiple peer-reviewed studies including human data; ✚ = limited human or robust pre-clinical evidence.
Practical Formulating Notes
Key Parameters & Guidance
| Parameter |
Guidance |
| Typical Cosmetic Dose |
0.05 – 0.3 % free UA; up to 1 % when encapsulated (liposome, SLN, nano-emulsion) for irritation-free use. |
| Solubility & Carriers |
Practically insoluble in water; soluble in ethanol (≥ 50 %), propylene glycol, PEG-400, dimethyl-isosorbide, MCT oil. Best delivery via phospholipid liposomes, nano-structured lipid carriers or cyclodextrin inclusion. |
| pH & Stability |
Chemically stable at pH 4–7; avoid strong alkali. Protect from light/oxygen; add below 45 °C. |
| Synergies |
Pair with oleanolic acid (“anti-wrinkle duo”), retinol, or antioxidants (vitamin C/E) for amplified collagen & barrier effects. |
| Safety |
Patch-test: no irritation at 0.2 % UA in 24 h human occlusive tests. EU CosIng: no restrictions; confirm CPSR for finished product. |
Key Take-Aways for Product Positioning
- Multi-action Anti-ageing: boosts barrier lipids, firms dermis, protects against UV damage and MMPs.
- Sensitive-Skin Compatible: anti-inflammatory, itch-relieving & barrier-strengthening—ideal for AD-prone skin.
- Green-Label Story: natural triterpenoid from apple peel & herbs, fitting “botanical active” narratives.
Use a liposomal or nano-carrier system at ~0.1–0.5 % to claim “Clinically shown to raise ceramides & visibly smooth wrinkles within two weeks.”
Usage rate: 0.1-0.5%
Product appearance: white/light color powder It has a natural smell.
Solubility: Can be dissolved in oil, alcohol.
Storage: Store in a cool place. Do not expose to light and heat. At least 24 months old
INCI Name : Ursolic Acid