Myristic Acid (FEMA-2764)

Cosmetics Code: 2436

Myristic Acid 99%

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Myristic Acid (FEMA-2764)

Myristic Acid 99%

Myristic Acid 99%

Myristic acid (tetradecanoic acid) is a 14-carbon, saturated fatty acid commonly derived from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, or animal fats. In cosmetic formulations, it serves multiple roles—chiefly as an emollient, thickening agent, and precursor to surfactants. Its solid, waxy nature (melting point ~54 °C) makes it useful for providing structure and texture in products ranging from creams to cleansers.

1. Functional Roles in Cosmetics

  1. Emollient / Occlusive

    • Enhances skin feel by forming a light, protective lipid film.

    • Contributes to a smooth, non-greasy after-feel compared to longer-chain fatty acids.

  2. Viscosity Modifier / Thickener

    • In solid or semi-solid systems (e.g., sticks, balms), it helps maintain firmness.

    • Can be combined with stearic or cetyl alcohol to adjust consistency.

  3. Surfactant Precursor

    • Reacts with ethoxylates or sulfates to form myristic acid–derived surfactants (e.g., sodium myristate, PEG-150 myristate).

    • Provides foaming and cleansing properties when used as a soap or co-surfactant in cleansers and body washes.

  4. Texture Enhancer in Anhydrous Systems

    • In lipsticks, eye shadows, and ointments, it contributes to slip and spreadability.

    • When blended with other fatty alcohols or waxes, it creates a stable matrix to hold pigments or active ingredients.


2. Physicochemical Properties Relevant to Formulation


3. Typical Usage Levels and Formulation Guidelines


4. Compatibility and Solubility Considerations

  1. Oil Phase Compatibility

    • Mixes readily with medium-chain triglycerides (MCT), isopropyl myristate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and other fatty esters.

    • When formulating W/O (water-in-oil) systems, it can aid in stabilizing the internal water droplets by partially crystallizing at cooler temperatures.

  2. Synergies with Other Lipids

    • In combination with stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, or behenic acid, it contributes to a solid lipid matrix.

    • Blends with natural butter (e.g., shea, cocoa) can soften the texture and improve spreadability at skin temperature.

  3. Emulsifier Interactions

    • Does not function as an emulsifier alone; requires co-emulsifiers (e.g., glyceryl stearate, sorbitan monostearate).

    • Can be salified (e.g., sodium myristate) to act as a soap emulsifier in syndet bars.

  4. pH and Ionic Strength

    • In emulsions, maintain pH above ~5 to keep free acid stable and prevent hydrolysis of adjacent esters.

    • If salified (soap form), watch for hardness or chalkiness at pH >10; adjust chelators (EDTA) to prevent calcium or magnesium salt precipitation.

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