NeoCitrus™ has been extensively researched by L'Oreal group and widely used in its Vichy products.
NeoCitrus™ is Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, a flavonoid derivative extracted from Citrus, has been studied for its various potential benefits, including applications in topical formulations. While its primary use has been as a sweetener, NeoCitrus™ has shown promising properties for skincare. Here are its topical benefits:
1. Antioxidant Properties
- NeoCitrus™ is a potent antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals, protecting skin cells from oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and pollution.
- This property helps in preventing premature skin aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines.
2. Anti-Inflammatory Effects
- NeoCitrus™ has shown anti-inflammatory effects, which can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness and swelling associated with conditions like acne or dermatitis.
3. Skin Brightening
- Its antioxidant activity may contribute to skin-brightening effects by reducing oxidative damage that leads to hyperpigmentation.
4. Photoprotective Potential
- Preliminary studies suggest that NeoCitrus™ can protect the skin from damage caused by UV radiation, making it a potential ingredient in sunscreens or after-sun care products.
5. Moisturizing Effects
- NeoCitrus™ may help improve the skin's hydration levels by supporting the barrier function, though more specific studies on this benefit are limited.
6. Wound Healing
- NeoCitrus™ may assist in wound healing by promoting collagen synthesis and reducing oxidative stress at the site of injury, though more research is needed to confirm this effect in human skin.
7. Synergistic Effects in Formulations
- NeoCitrus™ can enhance the stability and efficacy of other antioxidants and active ingredients in cosmetic formulations, boosting overall product performance.
Example Uses in Formulations:
- Anti-aging creams: Protects skin from oxidative damage.
- Brightening serums: Reduces hyperpigmentation and brightens skin tone.
- After-sun care: Alleviates UV-induced skin damage.
- Sensitive skin products: Soothes inflammation and irritation.
Research from L'Oreal:
Objective
To evaluate the effects of topical applications of a combination of neohesperidin DHC, Cicer arietinum extract, and Vigna aconitifolia extract on various epidermal and dermal skin markers in artificially aged skin samples.
Methods
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Skin Aging Model:
Skin samples obtained from plastic surgery were artificially aged using a class II dermocorticoid (betamethasone 0.05% applied topically at 2 mg/cm²) at days 0 and 1.
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Test Groups:
- Group 1: Untreated control skin.
- Group 2: Artificially aged skin (no further treatment).
- Group 3: Positive control (aged skin treated with TGF-beta 5 ng/mL).
- Group 4: Artificially aged skin treated with a combination of:
- Neohesperidin DHC (30 µM)
- Cicer arietinum extract (0.2%)
- Vigna aconitifolia extract (0.3%)
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Topical Application:
The combination treatment was applied daily on days 1, 2, and 3.
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Analysis:
- Histologic and Immunohistologic Markers:
- Cell proliferation (quantified via KI67 marker).
- Papillary extension thickness (analyzed via H&E staining).
- Laminin-5 and α6 integrin at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ).
- Glycosaminoglycans (evaluated using Alcian blue staining).
Results
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Control vs. Aged Skin:
- Aged skin exhibited:
- Decreased mitotic index (cell proliferation).
- Reduced epidermal thickness.
- Reduced laminin-5 expression.
- Lower glycosaminoglycan levels.
- Decreasing trends in α6 integrin expression.
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Combination Treatment vs. Positive Control:
- Mitotic Index:
Significant increase in cell proliferation.
- Papillary Extension Thickness:
Significant improvement compared to positive control.
- Dermal-Epidermal Junction (DEJ):
- Significant increase in laminin-5 expression.
- Strengthened epidermal anchorage with increased α6 integrin expression.
- Glycosaminoglycans:
Increased glycosaminoglycan levels in the dermis.
Conclusions
The combination of neohesperidin DHC, Cicer arietinum extract, and Vigna aconitifolia extract demonstrated significant anti-aging effects in an ex vivo model by:
- Enhancing epidermal renewal via increased cell proliferation.
- Strengthening the dermal-epidermal junction (laminin-5 and α6 integrin).
- Improving skin hydration and structural integrity by increasing glycosaminoglycan levels.
- Modulating key markers of skin aging, such as epidermal thickness and anchorage to the basal membrane.
Usage: antioxidant in any skin care products
Mixing method: Blend or stir to distribute in water. By avoiding heat above 50C.
Usage rate: 0.1-1.0%
Product characteristics: white powder
Solubility: Can be dissolvedin water without using heat
Storage: Can be stored at room temperature But close the bottle cap tightly. Then completely protected from sunlight or heat. The product has a minimum shelf life of 2 years.
INCI Name : Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone
Example products:
- Vichy LIFTACTIV SÉRUM VITAMINE C
- L'ORÉAL Serum Midnight Age Perfect
- Vichy LIFTACTIV 16% PURE VITAMIN C BRIGHTENING SERUM
- L'OREAL Age Perfect Midnight Cream
- L'Oréal Paris Age Perfect Le Duo Serum
- L'OREAL Age Perfect Cell Renew Revitalising Day Cream SPF30
- Vichy LiftActiv C15 Brightening Serum
- L'ORÉAL Age Perfect Midnight Creme
- Vichy LiftActiv H.A. Anti-Wrinkle Firming Day Cream
- Nivea Shine Lip Balm Cherry
- L'OREAL Age Perfect Cell Renewal Anti-Aging Eye Cream Treatment
- Vichy LIFTACTIV SUPREME PELLI NORMALI E MISTE VICHY
- L'OREAL Age Perfect Cell Renewal Midnight Serum Anti-Aging Complex
- L'OREAL Age Perfect Cell Renewal Day Cream
- Vichy Dercos Nutrients Detox Purifying Shampoo
- L'OREAL Renacimiento Celular Sérum Nocturno Midnight Serum
- L'OREAL Crema de Día Renovación Celular
